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Writer's pictureSteven Keith

Downtown Graziano’s reopens, but for exactly how long?

Great news, pizza lovers: Downtown Charleston’s popular Graziano’s is not closing after all!

Loaded combo pizza from Graziano's on Capitol Street
Loaded combo pizza from Graziano's on Capitol Street






Just one day after shaking the local restaurant community with an abrupt announcement of its permanent closing, the beloved spot at 243 Capitol St. has now decided to reopen with reduced hours effective immediately.


Graziano's on Capitol Street
Graziano's on Capitol Street

“We celebrate the shop’s remarkable legacy as we announce its permanent closure, honoring Joe Graziano’s tireless dedication and commitment as he embarks on a well-deserved retirement,” the restaurant posted on Facebook last Friday. “We also extend our heartfelt appreciation to our loyal customers, whose unwavering support has been the driving force behind our enduring success.”


Fans of the pizza joint’s New York-style pies lost their collective minds, flooding the interwebs with messages of support – and utter horror – over the loss. Graziano’s apparently took note, posting the following update the very next day.


Calzones from Graziano's
Calzones from Graziano's

“Following the numerous positive comments, we have made the decision to reopen our doors on Monday (Sept. 16) with operating hours of 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday. We are sincerely grateful for your loyalty, love and unwavering support.”


Fans once again took to Facebook to celebrate the news, which I’m sure has led to heavier-than-usual crowds at the Capitol Street location this week.


What the restaurant’s post didn’t specify, however, was if the reopening would be permanent or just for Monday-Friday of this week – kind of like one last hurrah. But rest assured, I reached out the restaurant for clarification and they reported back: “We are going to try to keep it open. Fingers crossed.”


For those still wanting their Graziano’s fix in other parts of the county, Graziano’s Pizza at 14 River Walk Plaza in South Charleston and Graziano’s Pizza Express at 925 Dunbar Ave. in Dunbar remain open as well.


Woman looking for old Cagney’s menu


Fans of the old Cagney’s Restaurant on Washington Street in downtown Charleston often reach out in search of the restaurant’s famous Cajun Chicken Pasta recipe, which I tracked down in a previous column back in 2016.


Inside Graziano's on Capitol Street
Inside Graziano's on Capitol Street

Reader Becky Parkins, however, is in search of one of the restaurant’s actual menus.


“I’m just wondering if you would know where I could get a menu from Cagney’s when they closed? There was a dish, Jack and Twila’s Orange Roughy, which the manager had named after my mother and her husband because they dined there so regularly. I would love to have one and am willing to purchase it. If you have any information or whereabouts of one, please let me know.”


I wasn’t able to track one down after an online search, but I have to think SOMEONE who used to work there might have saved one for ol’ times sake. It was another Charleston restaurant institution that closed far too early in my book.


Can anyone out there help Becky track down what I’m sure would be a beloved piece of memorabilia from her past?

 

Fan seeks old Blossom sandwich ingredients


Now here’s one I can answer! Thanks to a little help from Yelp, that is.


“Mr. Keith, if you have answered this question in a previous column, please accept my apologies for not catching it,” reader Kelly Mullins said. “What were the ingredients used in the Dinsmore sandwich from Blossom Dairy?”


Oh, Blossom, how I miss that place.


Salad from Graziano's
Salad from Graziano's

During its later years, the one-time ice cream and soda fountain on Quarrier Street in downtown Charleston operated as a bustling old-school diner during the day, then turned down the lights and added white tablecloths and candles to transform into a lovely fine-dining restaurant at night.


(Total brag alert: I was once published in Bon Appetit magazine raving about late Blossom Chef Bill Sohovich’s incredible Creamy Polenta with Gorgonzola and Spinach, which was singled out in the September 2002 issue touting America’s “Best Neighborhood Restaurants.” You can still get a similar dish today on the menu at Soho’s at Capitol Market, which Sohovich once owned.)


But I digress.


I remember the delicious Dinsmore being Reuben-like, but with a twist, so I once again turned to the Googles to track down the exact description. That’s where Yelp reviewer Tia N. (from Orange County, California, of all places) saved the day.


In a review of Blossom from July 6, 2010, Tia wrote: “During lunch, it has a diner feel to it, and I usually get the Dinsmore (corned beef, pastrami, Swiss cheese, coleslaw and Russian dressing grilled on pumpernickel bread) which is served with potato chips for $7.95. The crunch of the coleslaw, creaminess of the Swiss and meatiness of the corned beef and pastrami are amazing.”


Mmm, it makes me want one now. Good luck if you try to re-create it, Kelly!


• • •


Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.

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