If you’ve been on any kind of social media over the past month, you’ve probably seen what seems by now to be a never-ending stream of positively glowing reviews of the new Sergio’s Cucina Italiana & Pizzas on Charleston’s West Side.
This will not be one of them.
It pains me to say that, because I’m a big cheerleader for independent and locally owned restaurants. Even more so, owner Sergio Lugo-Mata seems like one of the nicest and hardest-working humans around. And with his recent announcement that he’s opening a fourth restaurant in the Metro Valley in the coming weeks, he’s contributing to the regional economy and creating jobs in a big way.
I love all of that, I really do.
But most of the food I’ve tried during my first three visits to Sergio’s inside the old Books and Brews at 222 West Washington Street doesn’t earn that same level of admiration.
I know my counter opinion is going to raise the hackles of Sergio fans and I’m sure I’ll hear from many. To them I will say: I’m so glad you love the place and I hope you’ll keep supporting it.
Those who do will most likely try one of the restaurant’s namesake dishes in the form of a plate of pasta or a piping hot pizza. There are many to choose from on a very large menu that also includes apps, soups, salads, sandwiches, seafood, steaks and more.
We’ve tried the Chicken Parm and Steak Tortellini (both merely OK), the Shrimp & Lobster Ravioli (very rich, but lacked seasoning) and the Chicken Alfredo (probably the best of the bunch by default). It didn’t look all that appetizing, but the taste was solid.
The marinara sauce on that Chicken Parm was rather bland – missing enough garlic, herbs, salt and cooking time to render a flavorful result – and it’s the same one you’ll find on the Spaghetti and other pastas as well.
We didn’t care for the Arancini Bites (small fried balls that were filled with rice and veggies instead of traditional creamy risotto) but the Smoked Cheese Fondue (a blend of cheeses melted in a mini cast-iron skillet topped with chopped tomatoes and served with toasted baguettes) was tasty.
Salads were fresh and fine, but we did not try any soups. Our waitress strongly suggested we skip them and I appreciated her honesty.
I did enjoy a very good meat-laden pizza topped with pepperoni, sausage and meatballs with cheese and sauce on a pillowy thick crust. I typically prefer thinner-crusted pies, but would recommend this thick version to any and all.
A special lunch menu also offers $13 combos featuring your choice of pasta paired with soup or salad and a non-alcoholic beverage.
That’s a good deal these days, when you’d pay about the same amount for inferior food at almost any fast-food joint.
As for the two questions I’ve been asked most often by readers calling to get the scoop on Sergio’s:
Yes, the restaurant does now serve beer, wine and cocktails. And yes, the air conditioning (which has been a point of contention since the place opened) has been fixed.
But please note the current A/C capacity isn’t nearly strong enough to cool the restaurant’s large dining room and open kitchen areas on scorching summer days. As such, it can get hot in a hurry, forcing the place to occasionally close during regular hours.
The owner has acknowledged this is a problem and promises a fix before next summer’s heat rolls in. In the meantime, one of my visits was refreshingly cool, one was slightly uncomfortable and one was downright sweltering. Needless to say, it’s difficult to enjoy any dining experience during the latter.
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In addition to the Charleston location, Lugo-Mata also runs Sergio’s Cucina Italiana & Steaks at 2803 Main St. in Hurricane, Guadalajara Modern Mexican at 3901 39th St. in Nitro and a new Guadalajara at 21 Tanyard Station in Barboursville set to open within weeks.
Although I’m not blown away by Sergio’s Italian food in Charleston, I am a fan of Lugo-Mata’s restaurant in Nitro thanks to its more-authentic-than-most Mexican fare, which includes traditional modern takes on dishes inspired by his hometown of Jalisco, Mexico.
In a glowing review of Guadalajara last year, I praised the Nitro spot’s ceviches, tortas, soups like pozoles, sauces like mole and a transformative carne guisada, featuring chopped steak cooked in a housemade tomato sauce with onions, serrano peppers, cilantro and spices that almost resembled a “rich Italian sauce or stew that’s been simmering on the stove all day, so the flavors just build and meld seamlessly.”
In retrospect, it’s pretty interesting that I described that Mexican dish by equating it to an Italian one, since I’d never tasted Sergio’s Italian food at the time. That realization leads me to believe that I probably will pop into Sergio’s Cucina Italiana locations again someday down the line to see how they are faring.
But for my money and taste, I’ll stick to supporting the Guadalajara side of the business for now.
IF YOU GO: Sergio’s Cucina Italiana & Pizzas at 222 W. Washington St. on Charleston’s West Side is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday-Saturday and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 304-654-0910 or visit the restaurant’s Facebook page.
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Steven Keith is a food writer and restaurant critic known as “The Food Guy” who writes a weekly column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail and has appeared in several state, regional and national culinary publications. Follow him online at www.wvfoodguy.com or on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest. He can be reached at 304-380-6096 or at wvfoodguy@aol.com.